48 hours in Bratislava, Slovakia: The perfect weekend escape

Start your weekend in Bratislava in the Old Town (Staré Mesto) and enjoy sauntering through cobbled streets, beautiful squares full of pastel-coloured buildings, listen to the many talented buskers playing everything from classical music on a jaw harp (a very interesting Slovakian instrument), to Alice Deejay on a handpan (as a 90’s dance music lover, this was definitely a memory), taking in the many coffee shops, restaurants, and bars promising to be busy in the evening.  This area is very popular with tourists, but isn’t like other capitals, where you can’t move for people.  It has a relaxed feel, and plenty of streets and squares to explore. 

Enjoy seeing Michael’s Gate, an impressive tower that marks the start of the medieval city, and keep a lookout for all the statues in and around the many impressive squares like Cumil, the man at work, peering out of a manhole, cheekily smiling at passersby.

After wandering through the Old Town, you may be ready for a pick me up of a coffee or beer, I suggest waiting and grabbing one up near the Castle, for the views, the atmosphere and also the prices.  From the Old Town, head towards Katedrála svätého Martina (St Martin's Cathedral) and take in one of the oldest churches in Bratislava with it’s tower and spire which can be seen from all over the Old Town and carry on walking the city walls, stopping at Vtáčia bašta ‘The Bird’s Bastion’ for an impressive photo of old versus new - with the Cathedral Tower in the foreground and the out of this world UFO tower in the background.

Head over the pedestrian bridge and enjoy more meandering up the cute cobbled streets.  If you fancy a beer, stop at U Dobreho pastiera, a lovely rustic bar in a building 250 years old, where a beer will cost you less than 3 Euros and you can sit inside or choose to sit outside and enjoy the views over the Cathedral.  If you’re not quite ready for a beer yet and fancy a spot of lunch, try the Drak & Finch, just round the corner, with an eye-catching dragon as it’s sign, they do lovely sandwiches and snacks, and have a selection of wines, international beers and coffees to keep you refreshed.

Once you’ve quenched your thirst, walk up one of the many streets to the Castle, overlooking the Danube, with stunning views over the city and even a glimpse of Austria on a clear day. You can pay to go into the castle and see exhibitions on Slovak history and culture, catch one of the mini tourist buses or just enjoy the walk, taking in the scenery, a few photos of the view and think about where you might end up on your first night in this bustling city.

After wandering and many steps, a bit of a refresh and recharge back at your accommodation and ready for the night ahead….

Controversial but also popular, the KGB, is somewhere I’d recommend visiting to start your night before moving into the Old Town and beyond.  Only a 10 minute walk from the Old Town this is more like a museum than a bar. 

Step underground into a long tunnel full of Soviet memorabilia, Stalin and Lenin busts, propaganda posters, old telephones and typewriters. Sit in one of the booths and you can’t help but look around youl and take it all in.  The drinks are very cheap here and the staff friendly.  I say start early as it gets very busy later into the evening - we were just leaving as 2 stag parties arrived and got super excited when they learnt how much a pint of Staropramen cost.  It is a fascinating bar, and I would recommend it just to see all the artefacts that have been donated over the years.

From here, either head for ‘Rooftop by Regal’ if it’s turning into a nice evening,this place has a lovely rooftop terrace, overlooking the historic centre and next to Michael’s Gate, it is a great place to catch the sunset. With craft beer, wine or cocktails, as well as live music, it is completely opposite to the underground KGB, and will set a lovely tone for the rest of your evening.

Alternatively, if you don’t fancy a rooftop bar, or the weather isn’t so good, head to our favourite street, Beblavého as this is where we recommend to eat, and head to one of the bars in Bratislava enjoyed by the locals.  Choose from U Certa (At the Devil’s), a quirky bar with good beer, laid back atmosphere, cool art on the walls or next door at Drink in gallery Andy - this is one not to be missed - with an interior that makes you feel like you are sitting inside an old tram, it is very cosy, with friendly staff and a fun atmosphere (check out the DJ in the toilet!), great for photos, to have a beer or a nice cocktail before heading to the main attraction and for some food…

Dinner at Modrá Hviezda, a traditional Slovak restaurant at the top of Beblavého.  A lovely restaurant with lots of character, friendly staff where you can try local dishes like bryndzové halušky (potato dumplings with sheep cheese) or kapustnica (cabbage soup) as a starter, which looked delicious but also very hearty, so we skipped the starters to go straight onto mains.  I enjoyed the venison goulash with rosemary and cranberry dumplings, whilst Simon, my husband, had the roasted duck with steamed red cabbage and Lokše potato flatbread.  Both were delicious, warming and very generous in size.  With traditional Slovak wines, traditional food, beautiful surroundings and delicious desserts (I couldn’t resist the almond chocolate cake…definitely recommended!).  Very reasonable, and with a shot of Slivovica, a local spirit made of plums to finish, make sure you check out Modrá Hviezda for a taste of Slovakia.

Just across from the restaurant and still on street Beblavého, you’ll find Viecha Pod Hradom which is a definite must.  You can spot the entrance with the twinkling lights and welcoming music playing.  In front of you, you’ll see the Cathedral tower, and go round the corner to find their outdoor seating, with a view over the Danube and across to the UFO tower, a beautiful place to enjoy the views.  Step inside and find a modern bar with the most exciting discovery - 8 tanks of WINE, not beer, but craft wine!  After living in Romania for a year, we are huge converts to wine drinking, especially from Central and Eastern Europe, so we were so excited to know this craft wine bar existed…choose from the two red, four white or two rose tanks, all with different varieties, but all from local Slovak Wine producers, we were in our element.  Starting at 1.85 euros per glass, this is the adult version of a pick and mix sweet shop!  They were all exceptional, the staff super friendly and making recommendations if you need help.  They also do small plates and canapes to pair with your wine, if you don’t fancy such a big meal at Modrá Hviezda.  A romantic evening, but also somewhere to spend an afternoon, relaxing, enjoying the views and of course the wine!

Begin your second day with a walk along the Danube River. Cross the Most SNP bridge to reach the UFO, an amazing structure offering panoramic views over the city from the observation deck, or a bite to eat or drink in the restaurant and bar (although a little pricier).  If you’re not good with heights, then skip going up here and carry on walking down the river to the West, to the next bridge, Starý most (Old Bridge) which you can take some amazing photos over the Danube from the Sunset viewpoint, getting the Castle and UFO in.

For lunch, for something quick, try the food court in Eurovea, the huge shopping and entertainment centre on the Danube Waterfront, to the right as soon as you come off the Old Bridge for a sandwich, burger, Mexican, Korean, Salad bowls, Sushi and lots more.

Alternatively, for somewhere a bit slower paced, to sit down and enjoy is Urban Bistro, found on Michalska Street in the Old town, a 15 minute walk from the Old Bridge, for a lovely lunch of soup of the day, healthy bowls like prawn quinoa bowl, Salads and tacos.  Make sure you fill up on something before the afternoon’s activity...wine tasting in the dark!

Found in the Old Town, only a 5 minute walk from Urban House is Tmava Degustacia.  As you can see, there is a little bit of a pattern with our trips and what we enjoy doing whilst away, tasting wine definitely being one of those!  We’d seen signs for it and fancied doing something a bit different, so headed to Tmava Degustacia, just off the main street, Michalska, in the Old town.  Go down underground and enter the Wine Cellar to be greeted by the friendly and very knowledgeable staff, including Boris who was our sommelier and host.  It was only myself and Simon taking part in the experience, so it was like our very own private wine tasting.  Seated in a lovely area, we were told to sit and not make sudden movements.  The lights were turned completely off which was a bit strange at first, feeling a bit disorientated not being able to see anything at all, but soon adjusted, and the experience started.  With a voice recording talking us through the experience, wine by wine, with Boris and his night goggles like a ninja pouring out our wine each time without us even realising.  In the darkness, without seeing anything, your other senses are completely awakened.  The recording asking what bouquet the wine has, what flavours can you smell, what spices, fruits, woods can you taste.  The experience lasts approximately 90 minutes and in this time, you try 5 different wines all from Slovakia and a mixture of red, white and rose.  Once you’ve tried all 5 wines, the lights are gently turned up so your eyes can adjust and you can see the wines you’ve just tried, which are also available to buy afterwards alongside lots of other beautiful bottles from Slovakia.  A really relaxing and enjoyable experience, we would definitely recommend it for an afternoon’s entertainment.

After our wine experience, we were ready for a little change and refresh before heading out in the evening for dinner and drinks.

There are a lot of different restaurants and bars to choose from, it’s quite difficult to know what might be good or not so good.  For me, as you already know, good food and drink is a must when going somewhere new, so we asked a few of the locals and ex-pats where they recommend and they all said Jasmin but…’you have to book!’ (always a good sign) and they weren’t wrong.   Back up near the Castle, Jasmin is a beautiful asian restaurant serving Chinese, Thai and Sushi.  We were glad to have booked ahead as it was completely full, mainly of locals and ex-pats, the smells were absolutely amazing, so couldn’t wait to eat.  We had the tempura prawns with light and crispy batter and spring rolls to start, which were both delicious.  For mains we both had the rice noodles, one with beef and one with prawn, both were absolutely delicious, big portions and very reasonable.  Not only this, but Kirin and Asahi Japanese, Tsingtao Chinese and Singha Thai beer all available to enjoy with the food! Very friendly staff, lovely atmosphere and amazing food and drink, this is one to definitely try.

After enjoying some food, we headed back into the Old Town to try the night life.

Urban House, a very cool, upmarket feel, perfect for an early evening cocktail or two. From frozen Daiquiris to Peach and Jasmine Negronis, this is a chic place and perfect for a date feel or with a group of friends.  Open from morning until night, for breakfast through to DJ nights, as the day goes on, the lights go down and the music goes up, this is a place with a great atmosphere at any time.

Just around the corner from Urban House, we found Spin Cocktail bar, a place to find locals, tourists and ex-pats, a brilliant bar with the friendliest staff, best cocktails and games and activities.  Come alone or with friends, you’ll be made to feel welcome at Spin.  When we visited, we decided to choose from the Round the World menu and went for the Full Moon Party in Thailand, the Bijou in Japan, Dirty Geneva in Netherlands, to Ojo de Dios in Buenos Aires, all absolutely delicious to look at and taste!

After plenty of food and many delicious cocktails, we were ready to call it a night, but if you did fancy a later beverage, there are lots of places to choose from!

One of the many things I love about Europe is how well connected you are and how easy it is to take a cheeky trip to another country. 

Spending the weekend in Bratislava has a brilliant bonus - it's one of these places which is in a brilliant location…look on a map and you’ll see it’s situated close to Austria, Czechia and Hungary, it’s easy to get to Vienna, Brno, and Budapest for a day trip or overnight stay.  (All of which are amazing and I shall be writing about both Brno and Budapest in the coming months). 

With Vienna being the closest and only having a day extra, this is the one we chose to visit.  With options of hopping on a train, bus or ferry up the Danube river and with regular connections and only a 50 minute journey, I definitely recommend trying Vienna for the day.

Vienna, the capital of Austria and a beautiful city to spend time in. A day is plenty of time to see the main sights, but if you have chance, spend a night so as to not rush everything.  It is walkable, but large, so you won’t have time to see everything, but gain a good idea of what the city is like.

Home to Mozart, Beethoven and Strauss, Vienna is definitely a city full of culture, beautiful buildings and tradition. With the centre being a UNESCO World Heritage site, start your day here, with horses and carriages everywhere, many beautiful streets and buildings that remain untouched, it’s easy to imagine famous composers creating masterpieces whilst people danced to the Vienesse Waltz in the grand ballrooms.

Whilst walking around to gain a feel of the city, but stumbled upon a few things that we’d recommend to see and visit if you have the time.

Hofburg Palace - Home to the Wold Famous Spanish Riding School

Rathaus - One of the most stunning town halls I’ve seen!

Kalrskirche - Beautiful 18th-century church with unique Greek features

Weiner Staatsoper - The historic and famous Vienna State Opera House

St Stephen’s Cathedral - Climb the tower for amazing views over the city

Belvedere Palace - Beautiful Baroque palace and gardens with permanent and changing exhibitions with masterpieces by artists such as Klimt and van Gogh

Schönbrunn Palace - beautiful palace from the outside, with manicured gardens, you can also take a tour inside of the palace

For a taste of Vienesse food - Café Central - Dating back to 1876, there were crowds waiting to go in here, so we didn’t get chance, but they are known for their beautiful grand interiors and famous poets, philosophers, scientists, politicians have all got together in this famous coffeehouse.

Or Hotel Sacher - The home to the original Sacher-Torte, making it now as it was originally in 1832.

Or try a Wiener Schnitzel at Figlmüller - huge and crispy, with a potato salad, deliciously made since 1905.

If these are too busy, walk around, gain a sense of where the locals may go, grab a Schnitzel or hot dog from one of the street food vendors...there’s something for everyone!

After a busy day and 33,000 steps later, we were heading back to Bratislava, ready for our early morning flight the next day.  With lots of photos, happy stomachs and lots of memories, Bratislava had been the perfect weekend escape.

Bratislava may not be as popular or as famous as nearby Vienna or Budapest, but that’s what we like about it. With a mix of medieval streets, and modern vibe, a weekend in Bratislava offers a unique taste of Central Europe.  A city easy to take the time to explore and find your own unique experiences, go explore Bratislava, stay a couple of days, or longer and travel to Vienna, Budapest or Brno.  It’s a city we will be back again to do just that, and explore more of Slovakia.

Wear comfortable shoes - it is a very walkable city, easy to get around, but comfortable shoes are needed to make sure you see as much as you can.  No heels are needed in Bratislava as there are so many cobbled streets, you’d end up looking down at the streets rather than the sights!

Food and Drink: We found the best restaurants and bars were out of the Old Town.  As it is where the majority of tourists are found, the prices and quality reflect this.  Up near the Castle and over the river tend to be better options, or if in the Old town, try wandering off the main streets and squares down back streets to find better options.

For a quick bite to eat in the afternoon or after having a few drinks and having that beer jacket on - I love Pizza in the centre, right next to Cumil, serves New York Style slices of pizza, brilliant for when you need something quick and easy, and 3 Euros a slice.

For breakfast or brunch: Eggstro - As the name suggests, eggs feature heavily in the dishes here.  From smashed avocado, smoked salmon and poached eggs on toast, to omelettes, fried eggs on sourdough, steak salads, burrata salad and soups.  A 10 minute walk from the centre, this is a restaurant that has a high-end feel without the price tag and delicious any time of the day.

Omio - A travel app you must download!! For getting to and from places, Omio will work out the best options for you for time and price, comparing all modes of transport.  For us, it worked out to get to Vienna at the times we wanted, Flixbus was the best option, as the ferry was at awkward times unfortunately for what we needed, and the train worked out a lot more in price.  It is an app we have used across Europe and always worth checking it when booking transport.

I hope that you've enjoyed reading this, follow me on instagram for more Eastern European insights! @girlabouteasterneurope

by Fay Williams