Review: An Evening at The Old Liquor Store, York

There are lovely little nods to its chocolatey past too and the history of the building still shines throughout with photos of factory workers dotted around the restaurant. The layout feels open and relaxed, and the whole place has that balance of being stylish and homely at the same time.

The Old Liquor Store is a really inclusive place too. Families and dogs are welcome, and there’s a lift for easy wheelchair access. On sunnier days, the champagne terrace is a must-visit – it’s south-facing, overlooks the Terry’s clocktower, and has plenty of comfy seating. Whether you’re sipping cocktails, sharing oysters, or just soaking up the atmosphere, it’s one of York’s best spots for al fresco dining.

Global cuisine with a seasonal Yorkshire twist

And of course, the food. The menu takes inspiration from around the world but always with a subtle Yorkshire twist. Everything is freshly cooked in their open kitchen, and the menu changes regularly to keep things seasonal and exciting. You’ll find everything from brunch classics to hearty evening meals, plus their traditional Sunday roast (served from 12pm-4pm every Sunday) which has quickly become a local favourite and is every bit worth it. Every dish is prepared with care and attention to detail featuring locally sourced ingredients and an emphasis on traditional British dishes.

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The kitchen is headed up by local chef Matt Leivers, who has over 10 years of experience in some of the UK’s most acclaimed Michelin accredited restaurants. Matt has previously worked at the incredible Star Inn at Harome and the Star Inn the City and has now taken over the kitchen at the Old Liquor Store.

Dinner Menu

To start, I chose the Black Tom gin and dulse-cured salmon – a dish that was as fresh as it was flavourful. Paired with a light, fluffy toasted English muffin, it felt instantly special, the kind of plate that sets the tone for a memorable meal. My husband opted for the crispy natural smoked haddock and gruyère brandade, which was every bit as impressive. Served with a roasted crab shell and a rich brandy bisque, the dish delivered a creamy and indulgent flavour that was both highly sophisticated and comforting.

For the main course, I chose the 14-hour Guinness-braised ox cheek, and it was nothing short of exceptional. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth tender, infused with a deep, rich flavour, and perfectly complemented by Scottish girolles, smoked bacon mash, Bovril-buttered swede, and a bone marrow crumble that added a touch of indulgence. It was, without doubt, one of the best dishes I’ve enjoyed in a long time. Across the table, my husband savoured the herb-roasted pork chop, which was every bit as impressive as the ox cheek. Served with pulled shoulder and a silky charcuterie sauce, it was hearty, beautifully cooked, and full of flavour.

To accompany our meal, we chose a Picpoul de Pinet and a Pinot Grigio – crisp, dry, and a perfect match for the dishes we ordered. One thoughtful touch on the menu is the suggested wine pairing option which is thoughtfully listed beneath each dish, making it easy to find the ideal glass to accompany your meal. Beyond the wine list, The Old Liquor Store also offers an excellent selection of beers and cocktails, so there’s something to suit every taste.

The Old Liquor Store menu also caters brilliantly for vegans and vegetarians. On the daytime menu, you’ll find indulgent options like black truffle and mascarpone creamed wild mushrooms served with focaccia, parmesan, and rocket. For a fully vegan choice, dishes such as grilled peppers and courgettes with rosemary-roasted portobello mushroom, confit plum tomato, sweetcorn fritter, home-baked cannellini beans, and focaccia showcase just how vibrant and satisfying plant-based dining can be.

We shared the hot chocolate and coconut fondant for dessert, which paired with a silky rum-infused butterscotch and a scoop of smooth vanilla gelato. We truly finished on a high with this dish, it really was delicious.

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The drinks menu at the Old Liquor Store is just as impressive as the food menu. The bar serves up an eclectic mix of local ales, craft beers, and timeless cocktails, while wine lovers can enjoy a thoughtfully curated list that blends local favourites with international picks. For those opting for something lighter, there’s also a great choice of refreshing non-alcoholic options to choose from too.

Whether you’re after a relaxed brunch, cocktails and nibbles in the sun, or a special evening meal, The Old Liquor Store has you covered – and it’s fast becoming one of my favourite spots in York for high quality food, attentive service and an impressive drinks list.

The Old Liquor Store, Bishopthorpe Road, York, YO23 1FT

01904 950147

www.theoldliquorstore.co.uk

By Laura Grayson, Girl About York