Croatia – A laid-back family holiday full of sunshine and surprises

Exploring Croatia for the First Time
Croatia is one of those places that grabs your heart before you even realise it. Towering pine forests tumble into rugged hills and distant mountains, giving off serious North of Italy vibes. Ancient walled towns with cobbled alleyways meander down to turquoise seas so dazzling it’s like you’ve added a filter. And the best bit? Hardly a McDonald’s, Starbucks or KFC in sight.
As a first-time visitor, I was utterly smitten.
We’d booked a two-centre stay for our family holiday – a week self-catering on the island of Brač, followed by a week of poolside luxury at Hotel Croatia in Cavtat, just south of Dubrovnik.
Getting to Brač is easy. It's about a 30 minute drive from Split airport to the ferry terminal, followed by a scenic 50-minute ferry ride across the water to Supetar. We’d booked a hire while in the UK and were soon winding our way across the island to our apartment in Milna. The drive alone was spectacular – think ancient villages like Ložišća, where Dalmatian stone houses cluster around a stunning bell tower, beautifully lit at night.
Zlatni Rat Beach
Based just outside Milna at Villa Milena, we wasted no time exploring. First up was Zlatni Rat beach near Bol – you’ve probably seen it on postcards and Croatia travel ads. Known as the Golden Horn, this iconic pebble beach shifts and grows slightly every year thanks to the currents. It’s about a 45-minute drive from Milna, through scenery that wouldn’t look out of place on the French Riviera.
Parking was easy and affordable, shaded under the pine trees, and it’s just a short stroll down to the beach. It was pretty busy when we arrived – the kind of place where beach towels meet Instagram shoots. After a refreshing swim, we headed to the shade in the pine forest and tucked into crepes and juice from a nearby food stall.
We ended up at AURO beach bar for a chilled drink (and the coveted key to their private loos – a godsend given the queues for the public ones!). The vibe was fun, but the crowds were growing, so we packed up and made a quiet exit, this beach can get very busy in high season.
The next day we explored Supetar’s waterfront – pebble beaches, a mini water park, and a coastal walkway lined with Ibiza-style white bars and cabanas. Naturally, the kids made a beeline for the inflatable water playground at the far end. True to family holiday tradition, there was a race to the top of the pyramid. My husband won. I came last. Again. The kids were thrilled.
We hired loungers and soaked up the sun as the kids bounced, slid, and splashed. The friendly Croatian hospitality really stood out here – the manager even came over for a chat and, in true local fashion, suggested we rent a boat… from his uncle, of course.
Captain for a Day
A 10-minute stroll later, we were at Rent-A-Roberts Boat Hire, booking a ‘licence not required’ boat for the next day. And honestly? It was the best decision of the trip. We'd stocked up at the supermarket in the morning – enough snacks and drinks to feed a small army. Laden with giant bags (to the amusement of the surfer dudes on the dock), we had our safety briefing and set sail.
The rest of the day was a dream – cruising along the coast, diving into empty bays for a swim, and picnicking in the sunshine. We moored up at the charming village of Bobovišća and popped into Konoba Vala for drinks and snacks at the water’s edge. The boys took turns steering us back to Supetar, and by 5pm we were sun-kissed, windswept, and glowing from a truly special day.

The following days were spent enjoying Milna, our lovely little base. We quickly realised it was faster to walk than drive down to the harbour – the roads here twist and turn to match the landscape, so the direct footpaths are much quicker.
The waterfront is pedestrian-friendly and packed with charm – a handful of shops, market stalls, pizzerias, cocktail bars and of course, an ice cream stall run by the son of the takeaway owner, whose sister worked in the bakery… you get the picture. It’s that kind of place. With yachts coming and going, there was always something to watch as we enjoyed lunch by the sea.

After a blissful week on Brač, we hit the road for Cavtat – a 230km coastal drive (with a quick border-cross into Bosnia & Herzegovina) to our second home-from-home: the stunning Hotel Croatia.
Set high above the town, the hotel overlooks both the Adriatic and the charming village of Cavtat. It’s a luxe retreat with stylish rooms (all with balconies), lush terraces, and a fabulous pool area and bar. And the breakfast terrace? A dreamy spot to sip your coffee while gazing out over the coast. The hotel has both indoor and outdoor pools, sunbathing terraces galore, and a unique ‘beach’ – not sand, but carved stone platforms along the cliff edge. Each little ledge has a couple of loungers and a parasol, giving you your own private sunbathing spot. It's peaceful, romantic, and catches the sun beautifully – though not ideal for toddlers or anyone with mobility issues.
We had just one planned excursion: a boat trip into Dubrovnik. Arriving by water, beneath the imposing city walls, was a true “Game of Thrones” moment – quite literally, as fans will recognise this as King’s Landing.
We wandered through Luža Square and down the narrow stone streets, polished smooth from centuries of footsteps. It was charming, historic, and utterly atmospheric. Just as we picked a place for lunch, the heavens opened! Rainwater turned the cobbled lanes into mini rivers – but luckily, we found refuge in Nishta, a tucked-away vegetarian gem on Prijeko.
Even the meat-lovers were impressed. I highly recommend the smoked tofu bean burger – absolutely dreamy!
Until Next Time, Croatia...
I could have stayed in Dubrovnik for days, uncovering every hidden alley and ancient chapel, but the boat called us home. As we sailed back to Cavtat, I felt genuinely sad to be leaving. Croatia is warm, welcoming, and full of natural and historical beauty. We left with salty skin, and hearts full of memories.
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