A Dickens of a Christmas at Castle Howard: carriage rides, fabulous pies and festive afternoon tea
No matter how much of a 'Bah Humbug' you might be, I think there are some experiences that put you straight into the Christmas spirit, and riding through the grounds of Castle Howard on top of a horse-drawn carriage is certainly one of them.
I absolutely loved it. What a lovely way to take in this beautiful Yorkshire estate, and perfectly in keeping with this year’s Dickensian theme.
For Christmas 2026, A Dickens of a Christmas brings the author’s much-loved stories into Castle Howard’s magnificent rooms. And in the National Year of Reading, celebrating one of our best-known storytellers feels especially fitting.
There’s a lovely local connection behind the theme, too. Dickens stayed at Easthorpe Hall on the Castle Howard estate in July 1843, visiting his friend Charles Smithson. He knew this part of Yorkshire, and Smithson’s office in nearby Malton is said to have inspired Scrooge’s counting house in A Christmas Carol. It makes the setting feel all the more appropriate. Castle Howard’s history
Inside the house, each room draws on a different Dickens story, with installations, soundscapes and projections bringing his world to life. The decorating alone is quite something: more than 80 Christmas trees, 30,000 baubles and 2,000 metres of lights. I can barely untangle our lights at home, so I have huge admiration for everyone involved!
A Dickens of a Christmas runs from 12 November 2026 to 3 January 2027. Visit Castle Howard for tickets, afternoon tea bookings and details.
Among all the festive splendour, I was particularly pleased to see Mrs Dickens included. Catherine Dickens was the mother of their ten children, and her presence prompted a thought I suspect plenty of women will share: behind all those books was a family and a household that needed looking after. Charles Dickens Museum. She even published a cookbook herself, under the rather fabulous name Lady Maria Clutterbuck. Catherine’s cookbook
Now, on to another very good reason to visit: the food.
Michelin-starred chef Tommy Banks brings his famous pies to the Christmas Marquee, including a special Castle Howard Steak and Ale made with Estate-reared beef. They are the sort that deserve a proper pause in the day to sit down and enjoy. With all that exploring and Christmas browsing, you’ll want to make time for something delicious, and people were raving about these pies.
The afternoon tea was delicious too, and such a lovely opportunity to slow down and make an occasion of the visit. I was especially pleased that gluten-free and plant-based options are available. It’s worth mentioning your dietary requirements when booking so you can look forward to your tea.
There’s plenty to browse in the Stable Courtyard afterwards, including the Farm Shop and Jellycat Shop, should you still have Christmas presents to find.
For me, it was the combination that made the day: sensational decorations and effects in a beautiful setting, stories with a genuine local connection, that wonderful carriage ride and some very good food. A lovely festive outing to share with someone you enjoy spending time with.
By Sally Bendall
Photography – Sally Bendall
Featured image – Castle Howard – North Yorkshire Dreamstime.com
A Dickens of a Christmas at Castle Howard: carriage rides, fabulous pies and festive afternoon tea
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