The Weekend Edit – Why you should have Avignon on your ‘to do’ list

How to get there

Avignon is surprisingly easy to reach from the UK, making it an ideal destination for a long weekend. The Eurostar to Paris takes 2 hours 18min, then the high-speed train to Avignon is direct and takes around two and a half hours. It’s a wonderfully scenic journey and a very civilised way to begin a weekend in southern France.

It made a perfect stop as part of an interrail trip too. If you’re following a route between Italy, France and Spain, there are high-speed direct trains to Barcelona, Lyon and Nice for great onward connections.

Where to stay

For a short city break, it’s a good idea to base yourself within Avignon’s medieval walls. Mercure Pont d’Avignon is perfectly positioned for exploring the city’s major attractions on foot, sitting just a few minutes from both the Palais des Papes and the famous Pont d’Avignon. Comfortable rooms, an excellent breakfast and a peaceful location make it an ideal base for a weekend of sightseeing.

For something a bit quirkier, Hôtel Le Magnan is a super-cute independently owned hotel hidden within the city walls. Less than a 10-minute walk into the centre, this charming boutique hotel has doubles, triples and family rooms centred around a lovely tree-lined patio area.

If super-luxurious is more your thing then it has to be La Mirande. 5-star luxury at the foot of the Palais de Papes, La Mirande sets the standard for Provençal opulence. The rooms are exquisite and the whole hotel feels like a set from a period drama! They take their gastronomic credentials very seriously here, and guests can enjoy ‘Bistronomic’ dining and even cooking lessons on-site in tailored packages.

Friday afternoon

Arrive in Avignon and resist the temptation to cram too much into your first afternoon. Instead, check into your hotel, arm yourself with a City Pass (available online, around €32 for 48hr) and simply wander.

One of Avignon’s greatest pleasures is taking an aimless stroll along its cobbled streets, winding between honey-coloured buildings.  Hidden courtyards suddenly appear behind ancient archways, and lively cafés spill into sycamore shaded squares where locals linger – & boy do they linger, absolutely no one is in a rush here – over coffee or a chilled glass of rosé.

Make your way to the banks of the Rhône to find the legendary Pont d’Avignon, (entry is covered by the pass) whose surviving arches stretch partway across the river, offering beautiful views back towards the impressive city walls. Singing and dancing in a circle is permitted (IYKYK)!

As the afternoon light softens, stroll through the gardens beside the Palais des Papes (entry is covered by the pass). They provide a peaceful escape from the bustle below and offer some of the finest viewpoints in the city.

Friday evening

There are so many incredible restaurants options in Avignon, as you’d expect in the heart of Provence.

I’d recommend reserving a table at Le Bistrot Pamard, where Provençal ingredients are transformed into beautifully refined dishes inspired by the changing seasons. In my mind there’s no better introduction to dining here than dinner overlooking one of Europe’s most impressive medieval landmarks.

Expect elegant yet unfussy cooking, in this beautiful courtyard setting with colourful vegetables, fragrant herbs and locally sourced produce taking centre stage. Paired with sensational local wines, it’s the perfect way to ease into the Provençal way of life, where meals are never rushed and conversation lasts long after the final course has been served.

After dinner, take one last stroll through the softly illuminated streets. With many day visitors gone, Avignon feels wonderfully atmospheric after dark.

Saturday morning

It’s time to swap the city streets for the peaceful countryside surrounding Avignon with an electric bike ride!

Bike hire is available from South Spirit Bikes on Rue du Limas – book online – and you can take a half, or a full day, be mindful that the shop closes over lunch (because Provence) and set off to explore the wider area.

I’d recommend crossing the Rhône to Barthelasse Island, a vast river island that feels remarkably rural despite being only minutes from the historic centre. It’s also the perfect place to get a photo of the ancient city walls & a selfie with the huge Avignon sign!

Make time to stop at one of the island’s traditional farms, like Ferme la Reboule, who supply exclusively from their shop on-site. Chefs and Hoteliers shop in person to select from the pick of the day, it’s a wonderful reminder that Provence’s celebrated cuisine begins with exceptional local produce.

Cycling along quiet lanes and even a short section of the ViaRhôna route offers a completely different perspective of the city. Pootle past vineyards, orchards and open farmland before heading back into the city for lunch – making sure to take in the Rue des Teinturiers on your way. On this picturesque, cobblestone street that follows the small channel of the Sorgue from the Rue des Lices all the way to the city walls, you can see the ancient water wheels that were once the heart of trade in the city.

For lunch, try Grand Café Barretta, the quintessential Avignon café where seasonal ingredients and fresh Mediterranean flavours take centre stage. Here, it doesn’t matter if you choose a simple salad, grilled vegetables or one of the daily specials, the emphasis is firmly on quality.

Saturday afternoon

Return your bike and spend the afternoon discovering Avignon’s extraordinary history.

Begin with the magnificent Palais des Papes, the largest Gothic palace in Europe and one of France’s most remarkable historic monuments. Once home to medieval popes, its vast ceremonial halls, chapels and terraces offer a fascinating insight into one of the most influential periods in the city’s past.

Did you know that although Avignon is now part of France, it wasn’t always? The city belonged to the Popes court from 1274 to 1791 and was the seat of seven consecutive popes from 1309 to 1377.

Afterwards, browse the independent boutiques and lavender shops, stop for coffee in one of the charming squares or visit the city’s museums.

Avignon is a city that keeps surprising you and I think the best way to appreciate it is definitely on foot.

The following are covered in your City Pass.

• Popes’ Palace (Palais des Papes) – including the Papal Gardens
• Pont Saint-Bénézet (Pont d’Avignon / Avignon Bridge)
• Collection Lambert – Museum of Contemporary Art
• Musée Angladon
• Musée Louis Vouland
• Musée Requien (Natural History Museum)
• Musée Lapidaire
• Musée du Petit Palais
• Jean Vilar Museum
• Fort Saint-André (Villeneuve-lès-Avignon)
• Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction (Carthusian Monastery), Villeneuve-lès-Avignon
• Gardens of Saint-André Abbey, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

Avignon is compact enough to explore without a plan, but you can use the City Pass interactive map to help you plot a route.  There are so many treasures to be discovered!

Saturday night

For a completely different taste of the city, book a place on an evening gourmet experience or create your own culinary trail through Avignon’s historic centre with the help of the Guide Gourmande, produced by the Tourism board with the participation of local businesses.

The city’s finest restaurants champion local producers, showcasing everything from artisan cheeses and seasonal vegetables to Rhône Valley wines. End the day with a leisurely drink in one of the bustling squares and enjoy people watching. I’d recommend Place de l’Horloge, the main, lively public square in the historic centre, famous for its outdoor cafes, 19th-century city hall, and classic double-decker carousel.

If you’d prefer to book ahead and you like to know where you’re eating (relatable), my recommendation would be Restaurant le 46 on Rue Balance. Here you’ll find an extensive wine list (& I mean extensive!) with a relaxed Provençal atmosphere.

Avignon has a sophisticated nightlife. It’s not loud and frantic, instead evenings revolve around good food, excellent wine and relaxed conversation – exactly as they should.

Sunday morning

Before heading home, experience more of Avignon’s incredible food!

A gourmet walking tour offers the perfect finale, introducing visitors to artisan chocolatiers, cheesemongers, bakers and specialist food shops tucked away in the city’s historic streets (discount available with the city pass). Along the way you’ll discover the stories behind many of the region’s best-loved products while sampling a selection of Provençal specialities.

Try. The. Wine.

At this point I want to recommend the Tavel we sampled at Liquid Cave, a rosé with a dangerously dark colour, that normally I’d avoid like the plague. Locally made using ancient methods, I would have expected a wine this colour to be sweet, but this turned my preconceptions on their head. It’s crisp, it’s fresh, it’s a sensation! Get a bottle to take home & thank me later.

The tour traditionally ends at Les Halles, Avignon’s bustling covered market, where colourful stalls overflow with olives, herbs, fresh fruit, cheeses and crusty bread. It’s a feast for the senses and the ideal place to pick up a few edible souvenirs before beginning the journey home.

Au Revoir

After just 48 hours, you’ll leave with a genuine feel for Avignon’s unique character. Rich in history yet refreshingly relaxed, it’s a city where grand medieval monuments sit comfortably alongside vibrant food markets, peaceful riverside landscapes and a dining scene that celebrates the very best of Provence. For a weekend escape that’s equal parts culture, cuisine and sunshine, Avignon is hard to beat.

By Sally Bendall

Images, Sally Bendall