Our Family Holiday in Herceg Novi, Montenegro: An Honest Experience
Last summer, Mark and I, along with our three children (I know, I know, two of them are technically adults now, but to us they will always be ‘the kids’) packed our bags and set off for a 10-day adventure. If you’re looking for an affordable, relaxing, and activity-packed family holiday, here’s everything you need to know.
We flew from Leeds/Bradford airport Čilipi, Dubrovnik in Croatia. We were headed to Herceg Novi, which is just across the border from Croatia, and despite being in a different country it is by far the closest airport for that resort. We pre-booked a hire car to take us the 29km to Herceg Novi and to get around during our ten day stay.
Now, here’s an important tip: if you’re driving this route, it’s a good idea to avoid the main road - Jadranska Magistrala - when crossing into Montenegro. This is the main route into country and most of the goods transport and holiday transfer bookings cross here.
Montenegro isn’t in the EU, which means that border crossings can be a take a while in peak season. We had heard horror stories about people being stuck in queues for hours, on either side of this border, some even missing their flights home.
The trick is to turn off the main road onto the 516 about 3km before you reach the main border. This road leads off towards the coast and a much smaller, less busy border crossing. On our way into Montenegro there were no cars waiting, and only five cars ahead of us on the return journey. Perfect. In terms of kilometres, it’s a longer journey, but our hotel was so close to the border on the other side, it worked perfectly for us. I’ll leave it with you to see which route looks best.
Would I recommend hiring a car? Yes, 100%! It didn’t cost much, and while we didn’t use it loads, it gave us the flexibility to explore at our own pace.
Our base for the trip was the Iberostar Hotel in Herceg Novi. It is all-inclusive, perched on a hill with a breath-taking view of the Bay of Kotor. However, it’s east facing, which means an absolutely glorious sunrise, but we lost the evening sun. Not a dealbreaker, but something to be aware of if you love a sunset view with your cocktail.
The hotel is set into the hillside and there are lots of stairs and steps to negotiate, I wouldn’t recommend this hotel for someone with mobility issues. There are lifts to access most areas, but it would definitely impact on your stay.
The hotel itself is fantastic—spacious rooms, great pools, and a solid all-inclusive setup. Vegan options were clearly marked (big win for those with dietary preferences), and the buffet offered a good mix of fresh salads, meats, and indulgent desserts. The main restaurant had a stunning view overlooking the bay, and there were multiple bars, including a quiet rooftop one with jaw-dropping night-time views.
The beach at the hotel is stone and pebble, but what it lacked in sand, it made up for in charm. A large platform as well as the beaches for sunbathing, loungers with plenty of parasols, a floating pontoon in the crystal-clear bay, great for jumping off.
Paddleboards and kayaks are available to hire by the hour at extra cost, it’s a great way to explore the bay. The beachfront bar is open for drinks, ice-creams, and buffet lunch, right on the waterfront, so you can relax and enjoy while you watch the world go by.
The poolside bar is set high above the sea and again there are plenty of loungers available around the pool, this is also the setting for the stage and bar for the evening’s entertainment.
The hotel runs a water taxi into the town centre of Herceg Novi, €10pp return and the ride takes about 15 minutes each way. It’s well worth a trip into the village, there’s a charming old town and an ancient Turkish clock tower as well as Kanli Kula fortress to discover.
If you want to catch a sunset, this is the best place. There are some beautiful west-facing waterfront bars and restaurants or take a delightful stroll down the leafy Pet Danica promenade at the height of the day to catch some shade.
Hands down, my favourite day was when we took a private speed boat tour around the area. It was an incredible adventure, darting between submarine caves and stopping to swim in hidden lagoons beneath towering cliffs.
One of the highlights was the Blue Cave—a beautiful spot where the sunlight bounces off the water, turning it a surreal electric blue. We even found a shipwreck near Rose Beach (perfect for the adventurous types who love a snorkel).
A Day in Kotor
We spent a full day in Kotor, a medieval town surrounded by massive fortress walls. It reminded me a bit of Dubrovnik but less crowded and more rugged. The fort walls wind up the mountain, offering incredible views if you’re willing to tackle the steep climb.
On the way back, we stopped at a local pizzeria Citadela with a shady green terrace overlooking the harbour, watching the hustle and bustle created by the huge cruise ships. One of those perfect travel moments that make a trip memorable.
Overall we were pleasantly surprised at how affordable Montenegro was, we booked the flights and hotel separately. But there are plenty of packages available. Once you arrive it’s very affordable, a beer is around €3. It’s important to remember while hotels and some bars accept cards, cash is very much king here—so be prepared.
We visited in high summer July/August, and while it was warm, it wasn’t unbearable. The coastline gets a nice breeze, making it comfortable.
Would I go back? Absolutely. Montenegro has that perfect mix of laid-back charm, stunning landscapes, and great value for money. If you’re looking for a family-friendly destination with plenty of water-based fun, this should definitely be on your radar.
